One of the highlights of our time in the Kiso Valley was hiking the historic Nakasendo Trail between Magome and Tsumago. This beautiful walk, approximately 8 km long, follows an old section of the Nakasendo, one of Japan’s five major highways during the Edo period (1603–1868). The route once connected Edo (present-day Tokyo) with Kyoto, stretching roughly 534 km across the mountains of central Japan. Travellers included samurai, feudal lords, merchants, pilgrims and ordinary people making their way between the two cities. Along the route, 69 post towns provided places to rest, eat and stay overnight. Magome and Tsumago were two of these important stopping points.

The walk itself was an interesting mix of history and nature. We started in Magome, with its cobblestone streets, traditional wooden buildings, little shops and enormous waterwheels. Leaving the village behind, the trail gradually took us into the countryside and through forests of cedar, cypress and bamboo. Along the way, there were traditional farmhouses, small rural settlements, shrines and stone pathways that have been walked by travelers for hundreds of years. We also passed waterfalls, including the beautiful male and female waterfalls (Odaki and Medaki), which made lovely spots to stop and enjoy the surroundings.

One of my favorite things about this trail is how the scenery constantly changes. There are stretches of quiet woodland, open countryside, little streams and traditional Japanese houses tucked among the trees. We crossed Magome Pass, the highest point of the walk, and stopped at a traditional teahouse along the way for a little rest. It was easy to imagine what the journey must have been like centuries ago, when travelers would have walked these same paths on foot, carrying their belongings or traveling with horses and porters.

Our walk finished in Tsumago, another beautifully preserved post town where much of the traditional Edo-period architecture has been carefully maintained. With its wooden inns, narrow streets and traditional shopfronts, it felt like stepping back in time. It was fun to explore both villages and experience a little piece of Japan’s history on foot.